Dominica, with its towering mountains and endless forests, feels like stepping into a lost world where nature reigns supreme.
I didn’t expect to fall in love with Dominica, but the moment the ferry from Saint Lucia pulled into port, I could feel something special about the island. It’s easy to get here, thanks to the L’Express des Iles ferry connecting Martinique, Guadeloupe, and Saint Lucia fo just around $50 USD. In just 1 hour from Saint Lucia, you’re swept across the sparkling Caribbean Sea and into the arms of an island that feels untouched by time.
As we approached, the air shifted. The smell of earth and saltwater mingled together, and the sight of endless green mountains creeping into the clouds was something I hadn’t seen anywhere else in the Caribbean. It wasn’t just another beach destination—this was a true oasis of rivers, rainforests, and adventure.
The Green Heart of the Caribbean
Dominica is different. The lush, green forests that cover more than half the island give it a feeling of life bursting at every corner. There’s a quiet energy in the air, with the constant sound of rushing water from hidden rivers and waterfalls and the hum of the forest creatures around you. The island felt like an oasis, its thick canopy and untouched landscapes unlike anywhere I’d been in this part of the world.Everywhere I went, I could feel nature breathing, alive. The air was fresher, cleaner, with a mix of damp soil, wildflowers, and tropical plants that seemed to thrive in the island’s constant rain. Here, the weather is unpredictable, but it adds to the charm. One moment, the sun is shining through the dense jungle, and the next, you’re caught in a light, refreshing rain shower that makes the forest glow.
Unless you are on a cruise trip, navigating Dominica requires a little bit of planning, some patience, and a sense of adventure, but it’s all worth it for the beauty that awaits.
Dominica (not Dominican Republic), known as the “Nature Island of the Caribbean,” offers breathtaking landscapes, remote beaches, and endless rainforest trails, but getting around can be tricky.
While the island’s compact size might make it seem like an easy destination to navigate, the reality is that its dense forests, sharp inclines, and narrow roads can turn a short trip into a longer, more thrilling journey.
Before you hit the road, here are a few things you should know:
- Mountain Roads: The roads in Dominica are some of the most challenging in the Caribbean. You’ll find hairpin turns, steep drops, and occasional blind corners. It’s common practice to honk the horn when approaching a curve to alert oncoming vehicles.
- Potholes and Road Conditions: Many roads, particularly those leading to more remote areas, are poorly maintained with large potholes and crumbling asphalt. Torrential rains can also wash out roads, so drive slowly and carefully.
- Car Rentals: Several agencies offer rentals in Dominica, including Eagle Car Rentals, Courtesy Car Rental and I sland Car Rentals.
- A compact car is sufficient for most routes, but a small 4×4 can provide extra comfort and security for those planning to venture deep into the island’s mountainous regions.
- Driving Permit: To legally drive in Dominica, you’ll need to purchase a local driving permit, which costs 30 Eastern Caribbean dollars (about $12). You can obtain this at the airport, rental agencies, or the Traffic Department office in Roseau. My recommendation is to send your paperwork via WhatsApp to the tour operator and they will take care of this.
Taking Taxis: Convenience at a Cost
For travelers who aren’t comfortable driving or prefer a more relaxed way of getting around, taxis are a popular alternative. They are the preferred option for cruise travelers and they are available at both of Dominica’s airports, the cruise station and most hotels. Taxis offer a stress-free option for exploring the island. However, they can be quite expensive, especially if you’re traveling solo or covering long distances. Prices are regulated, with fares ranging from EC$65 (around $24) for a ride from Douglas-Charles Airport to Roseau to as much as $90 for a full day of sightseeing. It’s always a good idea to agree on a fare before starting your trip, as rates can sometimes be negotiated, especially if you’re traveling with other passengers. One downside to relying on taxis is their limited availability after dark. If you plan on heading out in the evening, it’s best to book a taxi in advance, as finding one on the street can be challenging after sundown.
Traveling on Buses: The Budget Traveler’s Option
For budget-conscious travelers or those looking to experience Dominica like a local, the island’s minibus system offers the most affordable way to get around. These privately-owned buses operate without fixed schedules, departing when they’re full and taking routes that vary day by day.
Buses are identified by the letter “H” on their license plates, and fares range from EC$2 to EC$11 (less than $1 to around $4). However, comfort isn’t their strong suit. Buses are often overcrowded, and the winding mountain roads make for a bumpy, sometimes uncomfortable ride. Yet, the experience of squeezing into a crowded bus, with the sounds of local music blasting from the radio, offers a unique window into Dominican life.
Here are a few things to keep in mind when taking the bus:
- Departure Times: Buses have no set timetables, leaving only when they’re full. It’s best to ask locals for an approximate time if you’re unsure when the next bus will arrive. Most buses travel to and from Roseau in the morning and return in the afternoon, accommodating workers and students.
- Where to Catch a Bus: In Roseau, each village has a designated bus stop, though they aren’t always marked. Ask around for directions, and locals will gladly point you to the right place. In smaller villages, buses leave from the driver’s garage or a central spot known to locals as “the bus stop.”
- Safety and Comfort: Buses in Dominica are generally safe, but be mindful of your belongings, especially in crowded vehicles. Pickpocketing is rare, but it’s always good to stay alert.
- Know the Fare: Bus fares are regulated, but drivers may occasionally try to overcharge tourists. Ask other passengers how much they’re paying to ensure you’re getting a fair price.
If you’re not in a rush and don’t mind the occasional discomfort, taking the bus in Dominica is a cost-effective way to see the island.
NOTE: A good analogy to the bus driving is hitchhiking. I took the public bus from Roseau to the big airport (3 hours away) and it was a half a day adventure.
Hitchhiking in Dominica
Hitchhiking in Dominica is not only common but also relatively safe, especially along major bus routes. Locals and travelers alike will often stand by the side of the road or at designated shelters, flagging down buses or passing cars. While this might sound unusual to some, hitchhiking here is a practical solution in an area where public transportation is sporadic.
If you’re considering hitchhiking, just keep in mind that it’s best to avoid doing so at night, and it’s always a good idea to trust your instincts when accepting a ride.
Just like in most Caribbean countries, getting around Dominica requires a blend of patience, resourcefulness, and a sense of adventure. Still, no matter if you’re winding through the mountains in a rental car, bouncing along in a crowded bus, or simply walking the streets of Roseau, each method of transportation offers a different perspective on this beautiful island.
At the end, no matter how you choose to get around, Dominica’s rugged landscape, lush rainforests, and welcoming locals ensure that every journey is as memorable as the destination itself.
Having a Local Connection
One of the most memorable parts of my trip was meeting John, a Couchsurfing host who became a friend and guide during my stay. Born in Dominica, but raised in Atlanta, he had moved to Dominica a few years ago, drawn by the tranquility and simplicity of the Caribbean life. John greeted me with a warm smile and stories about why he chose to leave his fast-paced life in the USA for the quiet, slower rhythm of the island.
With John, I saw the island through the eyes of someone who truly loves it. He took me to places I would have never found on my own—local markets where the air was thick with the smell of fresh produce and spices, secluded swimming holes where we were the only two people for miles, and local bars where the sounds of laughter and live music filled the night air. The pace of life in Dominica is different—slower, more relaxed—and that’s exactly what makes it so special.
Let the Island Guide You
What I loved most about Dominica was how unplanned everything felt. With no strict itinerary, we let curiosity guide us. One morning, we stumbled upon Emerald Pool a crystal-clear waterfall in the middle of the rainforest. It wasn’t necessarily on my must-see list, but when I saw the sign on the road, something made me pull over. The path to the pool was shaded by enormous trees, their leaves shimmering from the rain. When we arrived, the only sound was the gentle crash of water hitting the rocks and the occasional chirping of birds. It was one of those moments where the world felt perfectly still.
Later that day, we found ourselves driving toward Trafalgar Falls. Trafalgar was a bit more popular, with a few other visitors, but it didn’t take away from the sheer power of the twin waterfalls. Standing there, I could feel the cool mist against my skin, carried by the breeze. The forest surrounding us was alive, its damp earth fragrant and rich, while the distant sound of the falls echoed through the trees.
But it wasn’t just the big attractions that left a mark on me. Sometimes, it was the simple joy of pulling over at a random beach or taking a small trail into the woods just because it looked interesting on Google Maps. One of my favorite memories was a spontaneous stop at a tiny beach on the east coast. We parked the car, walked down a narrow path, and found ourselves on a deserted white-sand beach with not another soul in sight. The waves lapped gently at the shore, and I felt as if we had discovered a hidden paradise.
A Less-Touristy Island
Dominica was the least touristy of all the Caribbean islands I visited, and that’s part of what made it so magical. There were no crowds, no mega-resorts, just nature at its finest. Even in the heart of the island’s small capital, Roseau, there was a feeling of authenticity that’s hard to find in other Caribbean destinations. The town was alive with the sounds of vendors calling out their goods, the scent of freshly fried fish wafting through the air, and the distant buzz of music from local bars.
And then, as quickly as the cruise ship passengers appeared, they were gone. By the late afternoon, the island felt like it belonged to the locals again, and the calm returned. I didn’t stay in Roseau, but on a nearby town. Being there was different – I was a local for a few days, feeling like I had the town to myself. The stars would start to dot the sky, and the soft sounds of the island at night—frogs croaking, leaves rustling in the breeze—made it feel like I was in on a well-kept secret.
John also introduced me to everyone we encountered. Stories of multiple people from different backgrounds with one thing in common. Everyone was happy, that I decided to explore Dominica independently and not on a cruise ship.
The Journey Is the Destination
Driving in Dominica isn’t just a way to get from place to place—it’s part of the adventure. The island’s roads take you through dense forests, over mountains, and along the coast, offering breathtaking views at every turn. We didn’t stick to a strict route, instead opting to stop wherever looked interesting. Sometimes that meant pulling over at a roadside fruit stand where the smell of ripe mangoes filled the air, or exploring an unmarked trail that led us to a hidden stream.
There were moments when the road seemed to disappear into the jungle, only to reappear around the next bend. It was all part of the experience. And unlike other islands where you might feel rushed to check off a list of tourist hotspots, Dominica invites you to slow down, take your time, and enjoy the journey.
